St Vincent and the Grenadines is possibly the most cruiser-friendly destination in the Lesser Antilles. The country comprises 7 main islands and countless anchorages, all offering a different insight into paradise.
ST VINCENT
The main island, or the mainland as it’s referred to, has international flights arriving from the US, the UK and from nearby transport hub Barbados. There are so many places to explore on land so it’s worth hiring a car and taking advantage of your independence.
You can hike up the La Soufriere volcano for spectacular views of the island. The eruptions in April 2021 have drastically influenced the landscape around the north of the island but on our last visit, the trees and crops were growing again in the newly fertilised soil on the slopes of the volcano.
For movie fans, a visit to Wallilabou Bay is not to be missed. Anchoring can be challenging (reverse anchor in 25m then stern tie to a tree on the shoreline – the local boat boys will help you) but mooring balls are also available. This is the set of Pirates of the Caribbean and is instantly recognisable from the opening scene where Captain Jack Sparrow arrives into Port Royal on a sinking boat. You can see buildings, props and signed photographs and there is also a restaurant and gift shop (under renovation in November 2021). You can also walk (30 mins) to the nearby botanical gardens and take a swim in the refreshing waterfalls there.
Other anchorages on the Western coast include Chateaubelair, a quaint little town surrounded by greenery, and the Bat Cave which has spectacular diving. Young Island is also worth a visit with a short climb up to Fort Duvernette and a wonderful drift dive which showcases the best soft coral I’ve seen in the Caribbean. Blue Lagoon has a small marina and several moorings, although the reverse swell over the reef can make for an uncomfortable stay. You can fill up your diesel tanks and clear in here.
You can also take a mooring ball behind Young Island (looked after by Jimmy or Sparrow) and walk (40 mins) or catch a bus to a supermarket for provisioning. Massy is closest but Sunrise has better pricing. There is also a Massy Superstore in Kingstown (only 20 mins by bus) where you can also explore the fantastic fruit market.
BEQUIA
A small town full of charm, Bequia is a popular stop for cruisers spending longer in SVG. There are a few small food shops as well as a sail loft and a hardware store. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants too. You can clear in here (recommended) and there are many services provided to visiting yachts, including a water and laundry service on a bright yellow tug boat. There is also a bread boat that sells baguettes in the anchorage. There are moorings to the front of the pack but the holding is good in sand.
Admiralty Bay is large and relatively calm (unless the wind has a lot of North in it) with space for plenty of boats. There are a few nice beaches and you can walk along the Princess Margaret Walkway from Jack’s Beach Bar into town. There is some excellent hiking up to Ma Peggy which gives wonderful views of the island. There is a turtle sanctuary on the North East coast but it has come under some criticism as to the nature of the care provided. It is possible to anchor in Friendship Bay on the South East coast – it is calm and flat but has very few amenities.
Christmas and New Year are particular highlights for cruisers in Bequia, with the option of many social events planned around this time. The Cruisers’ Pot Luck Christmas Lunch is held in The Fig Tree restaurant (the staff are given the day off to spend with their families but cruisers are invited to make use of the space and bring their own meat to grill, and a plate of something to share. Last year there were about 100 cruisers from all around the world.) New Year hosts a range of ticketed events at bars around the bay, with the annual Cruisers Float Day on New Year’s Day where sailors join a pub crawl, starting in town and slowly floating South on dinghies and inflatables of all shapes and sizes. Games are usually held on the beach too.
MUSTIQUE
A private island, Mustique is a popular vacation destination for the rich and famous with royalty also visiting frequently. For that reason, it’s an expensive stop for any visiting yachts and boats are charged $220EC for a 3-night minimum stay.
For this reason, we chose not to stop for the night but still enjoyed sailing past the coastline and peeking over at the grand houses on the hillside.
CANOUAN
Canouan is a jewel in the heart of the Grenadines. Charlestown Bay is a wide, open bay with space for plenty of boats. We anchored further up at L’Ance Guyac, just to the south of the private resort, and had the whole area to ourselves. The dinghy dock is right next to a beach bar run by “Ice Man” who made us more than welcome and we were grateful to return for a cold drink at the end of a hot afternoon walk.
Local cruiser advocate, John (from John’s Marine Services) stopped to welcome us as he drove past us on the street. He offered plenty of advice on things to do and places to see. We rented a golf buggy the next day and had the best experience on the island! The buggy allowed us to drive up and down hills all day long without getting tired and we could explore the beach at the lagoon on the East side of the island, the abandoned Marine Resource Learning Centre which overlooks the barrier reef as well as the airport and the Sandy Lane Yacht Club in the south. (The Yacht Club is beautiful but prices are high…Scruffy’s Bar around the corner is another option for a drink with a view).
Sadly the famous Guard Donkey has now been sold to someone on the mainland but we spotted wild tortoises wandering about and enjoyed beautiful views in every direction. I would definitely recommend a visit.
MAYREAU
Saltwhistle Bay is highly regarded as a must-see location on any sailing trip to the Grenadines. It is a small bay with several mooring balls although it is also possible to anchor. The bay is shallow with reef on both sides so there’s not much space but if you can fit in, it’s well worth a visit.
The white sandy beach has classic Caribbean palm trees leaning out over the water which make for perfect photographs at sunset. And there are a few bars lining the shore which have a fantastic atmosphere and great food too. There are many photos of kite surfers in the bay but it’s hard to imagine this is possible anymore with so many boats moored.
Around the corner is Saline Bay, a nice calm alternative if a northerly swell makes Saltwhistle too rolly. There is a short walk up to the ruins of an old church which offers beautiful views out to sea and the Ranch Escapade is well known for its location on the East side of the island, overlooking Tobago Cays.
UNION
Union Island is the cool place to be. It’s a haven for kite surfers as the abandoned marina project at Frigate Bay has created super flat water with good winds for learning the sport. There is also good snorkelling around Frigate Island and you’ll find yourself surrounded by turtles.
From Frigate Bay you can take the dinghy through the lagoon to Clifton Bay (although it gets very shallow so it’s not recommended at night) where there are a few restaurants, some small grocery stores and a fruit market. Clifton has a relaxed vibe and everyone is very friendly. You can also stop in for a drink at Happy Island, a completely man-made island built from conch shells! You can clear in at Clifton (at the airport) and there are mooring balls if you want to spend the night.
Chatham Bay is also beautiful. It is wide and flat and has a few beach bars along the shore. It’s perfect for paddle boarding and bird watching as many pelicans live on the local fishing boats. There is a nice hike up to the top of the hill at the north end of the bay which provides views out to the Caribbean Sea as well as back down into the bay. No matter how long you are in St Vincent for, make sure you leave some time for Union – you won’t regret it!
PETIT ST VINCENT
Another private island, Petit St Vincent is a small island on the border with Grenada. Petite Martinique (part of Grenada) is right next door but you can’t visit without checking in (although some people apparently take their dinghy over to access the good supermarket there!)
There is no problem anchoring and cruisers are even welcome to go ashore, as long as the island isn’t fully booked. There is a sign at the dinghy dock to explain if you are allowed on the beach and which areas are out of bounds.
Although there isn’t much to do at Petit St Vincent, its real charm is in the island of Mopion right next door. A tiny sand bar inside a reef, the only thing present is a small wooden umbrella to provide the most intrepid explorers with a place to rest in the shade.
It is possible to anchor outside the reef to the south (although it’s quite rocky so take care where you drop the hook) and take the dinghy between the reefs to reach the tiny island. Once there, you can tie off to a large piece of driftwood and revel in reaching the best place in the world!
If you’re lucky, you’ll be the only people there and you can enjoy the perfect white sand, the beautiful sunshade which has been decorated with shells and stones, and the perfectly clear waters of the lagoon inside the shallow reef that is home to hundreds of fish.
It’s hard to believe that places like this really exist in the world, and perhaps they have to be seen to be believed. Make time for Mopion – you may never want to leave!
TOBAGO CAYS
Tobago Cays are perhaps the most well known islands in SVG. As a marine park, there are certain rules when you visit, but these serve to protect the marine life in the area and should be regarded. There are several moorings available in different areas within the park but anchoring (on sand only) is also permitted. The fees are the same for mooring and anchoring ($10EC per person per night) and a park ranger will come by your boat to collect money and give you a receipt.
The water in the Cays is unlike any other. It is bright turquoise and you cannot look in any direction for more than 30 seconds without seeing a turtle! You can visit the islands to see iguanas or snorkel the reef to enjoy all the sea life.
Scuba diving can only be done with a local dive company ($70US per person per dive). We were hoping to dive Mayreau Gardens as we’d heard so many good things but even with our own equipment and dinghy access, the price didn’t decrease (in fact it went up to $300US!) so we chose to snorkel and free dive on the reef instead. The current can be quite strong so swimming is tiring but any glimpse into the abundant life beneath the waves here is worth it.
Another jewel of the Cays is World’s End Reef, or Petit Tabac. This small island was the location used in Pirates of the Caribbean where Jack Sparrow was marooned for three days and where later Elizabeth Swann burned a rum stash in order to be rescued. The palm trees at the East end of the island are instantly recognisable from the film and there’s even a burned patch of grass which could be believed to have been the site of the rum fire!
SV Delos visited this island in 2014 and hid some treasure for their followers to find, but after searching the island thoroughly I believe it has been taken already!
RECOMMENDATION
St Vincent and the Grenadines has plenty to offer sailors, whether visiting for a week on a charter vacation or spending 12 months cruising the islands. You can find it all – bars and restaurants, hiking and watersports or wildlife and beautiful views – the Grenadines have everything you could possibly dream of. Just don’t tell anyone!
